MONDAY 10 - THURSDAY 12 AUGUST 2009
We spent the next three days sailing to Rome where we intended to book a berth for the winter. I flew home on 13 August.
Thursday 13 August 2009
Tuesday 11 August 2009
Porto Azurro, Elba to Marina Salivoli, Italy
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| Deck shower |
We had a gentle morning sail to Cavo, and after a swim in the clear water had lunch followed by a siesta. We then dinghied ashore to the pleasant holiday village of Cavo, where we sampled the local beer and ice creams.
The next day we had an excellent sail to Piombino on mainland of Italy, about 5 miles away, and managed to secure a berth in Marina Salivoli for the night. We walked the two kilometers to the train station to see where it was and after a rest on the boat, went out for a meal in the nearby Pizaria.
Diane and Graham left at 6 a.m. on Sunday to catch their flight home from Pisa. We had all had a fantastic week and Diane and Graham had got some more sea miles to add to their log books. Roger and I then sailed about 40 miles to the Island of Giglio. The bay seemed quite large but the water was very deep, and where it was shallow enough to anchor it was either a restricted swimming area or other boats were anchored. In the end we anchored in a small cala in the north of the bay with one other yacht..
Marina Salivoli: 50 euros per night
Diesel: 1.17 euros per litre, 53 euros
Graham's Blog - a Scoot around Elba
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| My bike after the acciden |
We could go diving today … “Is my ear infection better? Do I want to get wet? How much would a scooter cost? So many questions, so early in the day. We eventually decided that a scoot around the island would be good, so we left Roger opting to catch up on his reading. The 125cc Honda for Diana and me cost 52 euros and Sheila’s 100cc was 40 euros. With the miserable rental employee’s words “you covered for car hitting you but any damage to my bike and you pay” ringing in my ears, we planned a route on the useless recommended map (6.50 euros) – there are better ones – and set off along the south coast.
When we reached Porto Ferraio in the north – yes, we got lost frequently and only reached planned destinations by default. All was well, fantastic scenery and quiet roads, and when we stopped to check the map again, “where’s Sheila?” “Oh my god, she’s down!” Sheila’s bike was lying in the road, having been shunted up the rear by an Italian motorist. Miraculously, Sheila’s injuries were mainly limited to bits of her which she wouldn’t show us and the Italian was helpfully rebuilding and restarting her bike. He then ‘phoned the rental office and promised to sort things out at the end of the day, admitting liability.
Anxious to go on, Sheila, plucky to the last, dusted herself down and we set off on a series of further missed turnings and serendipitous bays and roadside café/bars. Lunch was on a hillside overlooking a brilliant blue bay at the Hotel Paradiso, Veticcio, and ice cream on the south coast, beach side.
Back at the rental shop, misery’s mood was even darker as he checked the bikes for damage and full fuel tanks. He then called up the Italian motorist who said that he’d be there in 30 minutes to sort things out. The girls went in the sea and I went to a bar. When I got back to the rental shop, Sheila had been charged with three days loss of rental income for repairs to be made to the bike. Beware – lack of blame does not cover you for this charge. The Italian motorist split the charge 50/50 but the cost to Sheila was still 72 euros. As we were leaving, misery finally enquired as to Sheila’s well being and almost smiled – or was it the Italian’s equivalent of wind? The girls, not wanting to miss out, then insisted that we went back to the bar for a beer.
After getting some provisions, it was time to get back to Roger, who had been stranded at anchor on Susannah - it was now past 8 o’clock and we had left at 10 a.m.
We found our dinghy completely rammed in at the quay, and got out with much pushing and shoving. As we cleared the harbour, the fuel ran out and the girls paddled back to Susannah – well, I would have unbalanced the boat if I had moved to a comfortable rowing position!
Bastia, Corsica to Porto Azurro, Elba with Diane and Graham
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| Di and Graham trying to sort out our fishing problems |
Monday was spent cleaning the boat and getting things in and out of cupboards to make room in the forward cabin for Diane and Graham, who had been holidaying in Nice and arrived on the ferry about 9 p.m. They brought some wind with them, giving us a Force 6 – 7 – so glad we were in a Marina for this one!
There is a Dive School in the Marina, so after some sightseeing in Bastia, the four of us took the opportunity to go diving on Tuesday, although the wind was still quite strong in the morning. We all piled into the Dive Boat to be taken just outside the Marina by the beach – we could have walked there! The dive was called The Aquarium, but it was one of the least interesting dives we have done – only about 12 meters with not much flora and fauna.
There was a lovely atmosphere in the Marina and we met some very friendly people. Marcelle, a Swiss, was on the boat next to ours and he gave us some tomatoes and cucumbers from a friend’s garden. Andrew is a Doctor and he gave us all diving medical certificates over a drink on their boat, which they keep in Bastia. We had a lovely meal in the picturesque old port in the evening.
We set off for Elba on Wednesday, exchanging French waters and wine for Italian once again and anchored in the bay of Lacona. The next day we sailed to Porto Azurro in a gentle breeze, except for the last hour or so when the wind piped up to a strong Force 6. As the boat heeled over, and no one seemed to be attending to the sails, I did ask if the boat was under control!
Monday 3 August 2009
Saint Florent to Bastia, Corsica where we were robbed!
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| The two men who robbed our boat |
FRIDAY 31 JULY TO SUNDAY 2 AUGUST 2009
We have had to motor-sail most of the way up the west coast, because of the lack of wind, and the last two days were no exception. However, I would rather have no wind than a strong westerly, which would leave us with no shelter. The anchorages on the west side of Corsica seem to have more of a roll than we experienced in Sardinia but the scenery is spectacular with the high mountains rolling down to a few beautiful towns and villages.
On Friday we anchored just around Cap Corse, the northern tip of Corsica, and then went on to Bastia, where we anchored south of the citadel. Another British boat joined us later. It’s a very exposed anchorage with a slight roll to it, so we decided to investigate marina prices and were pleasantly surprised that both marinas charge about 40 euros a night – not bad in August!
After a meal and exploring the town, we dinghied back to our boat, and the men on the British boat told us we had been boarded first by two young men, and then one of the men had come back with a woman and child! The men had taken photos of the boarders when they got back to the beach. When we got on our boat, we realized they had got in through the aft hatch, which we always keep open for ventilation, and had broken the locks on three lockers in our aft cabin, pulling all my clothes out. They had also pulled stuff off the shelf above the sink in our cabin, and stolen some of my jewelry. The next day they were back on the beach again! I wanted to report the robbery to the police, particularly as the thieves were still there, but Roger felt it would involve too much bureaucracy and take too much time.
We went into Port Toga marina, which is very convenient for the laundry, shopping and dive centre. This was the first time fore five weeks that we had had access to water, so we gave the boat a good wash. It is also the first time we’ve had electricity and I can use a hairdryer!
Marina Port Toga: 123 euros for three nights, free WiFi
After a meal and exploring the town, we dinghied back to our boat, and the men on the British boat told us we had been boarded first by two young men, and then one of the men had come back with a woman and child! The men had taken photos of the boarders when they got back to the beach. When we got on our boat, we realized they had got in through the aft hatch, which we always keep open for ventilation, and had broken the locks on three lockers in our aft cabin, pulling all my clothes out. They had also pulled stuff off the shelf above the sink in our cabin, and stolen some of my jewelry. The next day they were back on the beach again! I wanted to report the robbery to the police, particularly as the thieves were still there, but Roger felt it would involve too much bureaucracy and take too much time.
We went into Port Toga marina, which is very convenient for the laundry, shopping and dive centre. This was the first time fore five weeks that we had had access to water, so we gave the boat a good wash. It is also the first time we’ve had electricity and I can use a hairdryer!
Marina Port Toga: 123 euros for three nights, free WiFi
Sunday 2 August 2009
Porto to Saint Florent
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| Saint Florent, Corsica |
We had an excellent French breakfast ashore and did some shopping before motor-sailing the 35 miles to Calvi, which is set in stunning scenery. The 15th century citadel looked spectacular against the backdrop of the 2706 meter high Monte Cinto, - we could even see a couple of patches of snow! During the 1794 battle at Calvi against the Genoese, Captain Horatio Nelson was wounded by splinters of rock and lost the use of his right eye.
Most of the large bay is taken up with buoys, and although there were a lot free, we didn’t know if there was a charge for them, so we anchored nearly a mile away, which meant a long dinghy ride. The town was bustling with all the amenities – I even found a much-needed hairdresser! The mountains seemed to turn pink as the sun went down, and after a supper of crepes, we managed to find our boat in the twilight.
The next day we passed Corsica’s 5000 hectare desert on the way to Saint Florent, a lovely French town at the base of the 20 mile long northern peninsular of Corsica.
Diesel at Saint Florent: 1.19 euros per litre - 70 euros.
Ajaccio to Porto, Corsica
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| Porto Valley |
After getting diesel in the Marina, we motor-sailed the 35 miles to Porto, The Pilot Book warns that Porto can be very dangerous with strong westerly winds, which are strengthened due to the deep valley, but luckily light easterly winds were forecast. The setting is magnificent with the beach set under spectacular cliffs and the village of Porto spreading up the deep gorge by the river, lined with eucalyptus trees and oleander.
Because of the clear water and the local marine park, Porto is a major diving centre, so we booked in with one of the centres and had a lovely dive in clear, warm water where we saw nudibranch, fan coral and had an excellent view of a moray eel. We found a launderette, an internet café and had excellent meals in a couple of the many restaurants. The anchorage was very calm the first night, but the second night it was a bit of a roll.
Diesel in Ajaccio: 1.21 euros per litre; 96 euros
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