Friday, 27 July 2007

U boat pens at St. Nazaire

Susannah moored by the U-Boat pens

St. Nazaire
Originally uploaded by Yacht Susannah

WEDNESDAY 25 JULY 2007

ST. NAZAIRE

The anchorage was very rolly, possibly caused by some of the large boats and tugs going in and out of the St. Nazaire docks. The locks open every two hours, so we went in on the 10.00 a.m. lock. A large customs vessel was also waiting to enter – the same men who had boarded us last night! There was some confusion as to who should enter the lock first, but eventually they went in and we tied alongside them as they were bigger than us. We moored by some local yachts right outside the World War II German U boat submarine pens.

We wandered around the pens, most of which have been left exactly as they were. The British had tried to destroy them during the war, but when they failed they flattened St. Nazaire instead. We visited the Espadon on the other side of the Bassin. The Espadon is a French submarine built in 1958 and was used for the first underwater tour of the arctic in 1964. The tour was fascinating, but I would much rather have the comforts of Susannah.

Belle Ile to St. Nazaire - 47 Miles

Roger said these were small waves!

TUESDAY 24 JULY 2007

We waited for the lock to open at 11.00 a.m. and followed the large merchant vessel out – if he had enough depth, so should we! The forecast was 3 – 4, but the wind got up to a strong 5. We were on a run, so put a preventer on for the main sail and poled the head sail out. We surfed down some waves, and touched 10.1 knots through the water once! We anchored near the breakwater for the St. Nazaire docks.

We had just gone to bed and were having a quiet cup of tea and reading when there was a knock on the hull. A little disconcerting, as we were anchored in the bay! It was the French customs who came on board and questioned us about where we’d come from, where we were going next (we weren’t very sure about this) when we were returning to the UK, another question we had difficulty answering. They wanted to see our passports, had a look around the boat to make sure we weren’t hiding anyone, and seemed satisfied.

River Odet to Belle Ile - 60 Miles

Susannah in Belle Ile

Susannah in Belle Ile
Originally uploaded by Yacht Susannah
SATURDAY 21 JULY 2007

It was a beautiful morning, although there were a couple of showers after breakfast – the herons and egrets were fishing again. This area of Britanny is a fantastic cruising ground, with the various creeks in the River Odet, the quaint village of Saint Marine and the town of Benodet to visit. Further afield are the many islands such as Ile de Groix and Belle Ile, and the Quiberon Peninsular. The tide is not so strong here.

We planned to go to the Ile de Groix and left about 10.15. a.m. We had a broad reach the whole way and were doing about 6 knots in a Force 4 wind with sun. We arrived at Loc Maria on Ile de Groix about 5 p.m. The entrance was extremely narrow and tricky as it is surrounded by rocks and there is only a small pool. It would be completely exposed to Southerly winds. The pilot book said it was possible to anchor, but the pool was very small and filled with buoys. We picked up a buoy and by now the wind was about a Force 5. We had an arrival gin and tonic to calm our nerves and then checked Navtex for tomorrow’s weather. A strong wind warning had been issued for tomorrow afternoon reaching Force 7, possibly gale 8 from the South! 

We decided to head straight for Belle Ile, which was about 20 miles away, and put a reef in the sail before we left. There is an inner floating basin on Belle Ile which is only accessible about 1.5 hours either side of high water, which was at 10.00 p.m. We left about 5.45 p.m. but luckily we had a good tack angle and arrived about 9.00 p.m. We went into the drying harbour and circled hoping the gate would open. We called the Capitainerie on the VHF and the mobile, but there was no answer, so we went outside and anchored. We were very tired and just had a snack before going to bed. It was quite a rolly anchorage, particularly when the ferries went past on their way to Quiberon.




SUNDAY - MONDAY 22/23 JULY 2007

BELLE ILE

We managed to enter the Bassin a Flot at 9.00 a.m. and moored against the wall in the middle of the town, which is extremely picturesque. We visited the impressive Citadel, one of many which Vauban had improved during the Seventeenth Century. The Bassin a Flot is quite small, but about 10.30 p.m. a large merchant vessel came and docked alongside the quay.

BELLE ILE BASSIN A FLOT FEES: 22.00 euros, but possible to anchor; free showers.

Morgat to River Odet (Via Raz de Seine) - 64 Miles

The beautiful River Odet

THURSDAY 19 JULY 2007

We got up at 5.30 a.m. – worse than going to work! We had a lovely calm anchorage. The sea was flat with no wind for the crossing through the Raz de Seine much to Roger’s disappointment and my relief. We had planned to stop at Audierne, but would have got there about 10.30 a.m., so we decided to press on to Benodet. We passed Benodet on the right bank and Saint Marine on the left bank, and continued about 6 miles up the River Odet under the Pont de Cornouaille, passing chateaux on the way. We went into a creek as far as we could (that is until we ran aground!) and then anchored in a small pool. We startled a kingfisher as we arrived but after that the herons and egrets seemed happy to continue fishing and ignore us.

We had tea in the cockpit but it started to rain so we put up the boom tent. It was lovely sitting watching the rain on the river while staying dry.

WILDLIFE: Kingfisher, Herons, Egrets




FRIDAY 20 JULY 2007

RIVER ODET, 3 MILES FROM QUIMPER

PRAWN POT CATCH: Something very big

It was a beautiful morning and the first thing I saw when I looked out was a heron fishing on the river bank. Roger pulled up the prawn pot and this must have been the biggest catch yet! It was so heavy, it broke the line and we lost the pot to the river.

We took the dinghy to Quimper, which is a beautiful Breton medieval city on the confluence of the River Steir and the River Odet. It has a beautiful cathedral and many half-timbered buildings. The Festival de Cornouialle was taking place and various celtic musical groups were performing in the square. We left about 3.30 p.m. after having lunch in a creperie. It was low tide and we had to row for a while as the engine kept touching bottom. We used the engine for about a mile when the engine stopped – Roger said it had run out of petrol – I had questioned before we left how long the tank would last, as the trip to Quimper was going to take over two hours there and back. I rowed for a while but it was getting harder and harder as the wind was against us and the tide had turned against us. We hailed some people in a passing rib who then gave us a lift back to our boat. The driver of the rib had a racing yacht and had gone to Kinsale in Ireland in July. The weather was so bad they had come back, stopping at the Scilly Isles about 13 July. We had been there between 11th and 14th July.


Oussant - Camaret-sur-Mer - Morgat

 MONDAY 16 JULY 2007

OUSSANT TO CAMARET-SUR-MER - 32 MILES



PRAWN POT CATCH: 2 barnacles, Bait - bacon

Oussant had proved to be quite a rolly anchorage and we hadn’t bothered to put the flopper stopper out. It was a sunny morning, but the forecast was thundery showers, Force 3 – 4, possibly 6 later, so we decided to go straight to Camaret rather than go ashore.

We left about 9.30 a.m. to get the tide and managed to sail at about 7 knots, touching 8 knots over the ground on a beam reach. Northern Britanny has a very scary (for me) challenging (for Roger) coastline littered with rocks and a very strong tide that seems to want to put you on the rocks. We ran out of water again! We think there may be an airlock as the tank appears to be full as water comes out of the overflow, but then empties quickly.

We’d had an excellent sail, hardly dropping below 6 knots the whole way. We arrived in Camaret about 2 p.m. and berthed on the diesel pontoon to fill up. The pump would only take French credit cards. We had to call the harbour to pay with cash or foreign cards but they were closed between 11.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. The UK ought to adopt these sort of lunch hours!
We had lunch in the cockpit to wait until we could get diesel – first time in shorts!

We had a small bottle of champagne and went for a meal to celebrate our first landfall in France.

CAMARET MARINA FEES: 
23.40 euros, but possible to anchor; shower 2 euros. Internet available through Netabord but very expensive – ½ hour – 4 euros, 1 hour – 6 euros, 24 hours – 24 euros. Possible to get free WiFi in a café – just needed to buy a coffee.



TUESDAY 17 JULY 2007

CAMARET-SUR-MER

PRAWN POT CATCH: 2 winkles, 1 small star fish. Bait - bacon

We had coffee and French bread and confiture for breakfast and planned our route through the Raz-de-Seine – looks very scary with up to 6 knot tides through a narrow passage between lots of rocks!

We spent the afternoon in the internet café, shopping and doing the laundry – all of which takes a lot longer than expected! We anchored in the bay overnight.



WEDNESDAY 18 JULY 2007

CAMARET-SUR-MER to MORGAT - 18 MILES

PRAWN POT CATCH: Lots of winkles and limpets, 2 inch long fish, 2 large star fish on the outside – too big to get in! Bait – chicken carcass



While having breakfast in the cockpit, we saw a fender floating, so as we motored past we managed to pick it up. We left about 10.30 a.m. and saw the lifeboat and helicopter practicing manoeuvres. It was a good sailing day but we wanted to see if leaving the filler cap off the water tank would overcome the airlock problem. We have to have the engine on to run the water maker and it didn’t start overflowing for over three hours! Which means the tank should now definitely be full and leaving the filler cap off solves the problem of air locks.

The coastline was stunning with beautiful sandy bays and plenty of places to anchor. We anchored in the bay at Morgat about 2.00 p.m. and went ashore in the dinghy. We heard a couple speaking Welsh to their children, so we had a chat with them – they come from Sketty!

It was a lovely evening and we had tea in the cockpit for the first time – the sprayhood sheltered us from the wind.

New Grimsby Sound to Oussant - 135 Miles - 27 hours overnight

Camaret-Sur-Mer

Camaret-sur-Mer
Originally uploaded by Yacht Susannah

SATURDAY 14 - SUNDAY 15 JULY 2007


PRAWN POT CATCH:  Nothing


We left the Isles of Scilly about 12.30 p.m. It was a much better day with blue skies and sun, but rain forecast for later. We had put a prawn pot out overnight but there was nothing in it in the morning – we don’t think we had put it deep enough to reach the bottom as we were anchored in about 10 metres.

We set a straight course for Oussant and motor sailed most of the way. We transferred diesel from our spare cans on the way. The rain managed to hold off until my night watch. We made water from the water maker about three times on the way as the tank overflows, but then seems to run out quickly. We picked up a buoy in Oussant about 3.30 p.m. when it began to rain again. It had been very tricky getting into the bay at Oussant as there was a 3.5 knot tide trying to put us on a set of rocks, so we had to actually aim for another set of rocks.

PRAWN POT CATCH:  Nothing



Padstow to the Isles of Scilly - 71 Miles

 WEDNESDAY 11 JULY 2007

Tresco

PADSTOW TO NEW GRIMSBY SOUND, THE ISLES OF SCILLY


Another early morning – we left Padstow at 6.15, having moved onto a buoy in the river the night before. We managed to sail about 30 miles and then the wind was on the nose again so we motor sailed. It was lovely and sunny most of the way, but began to drizzle as we anchored in New Grimsby Sound. Just as we arrived in the Scillies, a puffin flew past the boat.

WILDLIFE: Puffin, guillemots, razorbills


THURSDAY 12 JULY 2007

TRESCO ISLAND

The forecast was for drizzle, fog and rain, but we actually had a little, if weak, sunshine. We took the dinghy ashore to Tresco and went to the Abbey Garden. The world famous gardens were created by Augustus Smith, who came from Ashlyns in Berkhamsted. Both Roger and I were brought up in Berkhamsted and went to Ashlyns School. We had a picnic in the gardens where the birds were extremely friendly and even managed to steal some of Roger’s food – something no one else has ever managed to do!

FRIDAY 13 JULY 2007

NEW GRIMSBY SOUND - ROGER’S BLOG : Force 8, New Grimsby Sound, The Scillies.

Riding to anchor in a F8 with lashing rain and mist, albeit quite comfortably, gave us the opportunity to reflect on some of the systems and equipment which we have added to Susannah in preparation for a long term live-aboard cruise to the Med.

First, a few words about New Grimsby Sound, described by Tom Cunliff as the best all weather anchorage in the Scillies. In all but a north-westerly, this certainly must be true with good holding , excellent shelter and short dinghy hops to either Tresco or Brhyer, both of which have surprisingly well stocked stores. We even managed to rent a DVD from the shop on Tresco and watched it on our laptop via a small inverter; the only problem being returning it as the gale makes dinghying a somewhat risky business. 

Of course, for thrifty live-aboards, one of the great attractions of anchoring is the avoidance of the marina cash box or the harbour master collecting mooring fees (usually at some unsocial hour in the early morning). In this respect New Grimsby Sound is still a good option despite the increase in the number of visitors moorings – the entire area south of Hangman’s Rock is now full of them – there remains room for a few yachts to swing to anchor south west of Cromwell’s Castle. If the admittedly limited delights of Tresco or Brhyer pale, it is possible to catch the ferry to St Mary’s or other islands (last year in more settled conditions Sheila and I canoed in our blow-up canoe). In short, I do not understand why so many visiting yachts make straight for St Mary’s with its less than perfect shelter and relatively expensive moorings.

This morning, surprisingly, we appeared to run out of water. I say surprisingly because we had run our Echo2tec water-maker during the passage from Padstow and topped up our 24 gallon tank. Normally, we find that with a couple of showers each our water lasts for about five days rather than three! However, the lack of water was not a problem, we simply started our engine (enough revs to balance the water-maker’s huge amperage draw) in reverse gear so as not to polish our cylinders. After 30 minutes the water tank breather overflowed, indicating a full tank. The water-maker would have only put in about 4 litres during this time so the tank could not have been empty in the first place. The problem is probably an airlock in the system; further investigation awaits.

We decided to equip Susannah with a water-maker for two reasons; our tank is relatively small and the installation of a second tank would take up valuable storage space and add considerable weight. The second reason relates back to a delivery trip we did a couple of years ago from Greece to Milford Haven when we were shocked by the cost of marinas in the western Med and did not want to be forced into these cash sinks merely to take on water. Our research, carried out at the Southampton boat show, revealed that there are basically two types of water-maker on the market; those which create a relatively modest amperage draw of around 5 amps and those which require a much larger electrical supply of 20 amps or more. The disadvantage of the ones with a more modest draw is that they comprise a more complicated technology with more to go wrong. Being somewhat technically challenged I decided to go for the simpler, but high amperage type, accepting that we would only run the machine with the boat engine producing a copious supply of amps. We further narrowed down our choice by rejecting models with complicated add-ons such as automatic testing systems to inform you as to when it is safe to divert the processed sea water into the ship’s tank. In place of such a system with the potential for technological failure, I simply wait till water is being produced and take a sample in a glass and give it to Sheila. If she pulls a face somewhat reminiscent of the puckered back end of a donkey and exclaims that it tastes like shit I refrain from diverting it into the tank!

When we purchased Susannah some four years ago she was an extremely well finished example of a Colvic Countess 37, a tribute to the skill of Ron Weedon, her first owner, who had expertly fitted out the Colvic hull with very attractive English Light Oak which had come from trees blown down during the 1987 hurricane. However, she was equipped for day sailing rather than live-aboard blue-water cruising and it took four years of fairly sustained effort to convert her into a comfortable and self-sufficient cruiser. One item, purchased from West Marine, which greatly improves comfort at anchor in conditions such as these is the “Rock and Roll, Anti Roll Device” or as we prefer to call it the “flopper stopper”. This is simply a stainless steel plate hinged in the middle which is suspended from the end of the boom or spinnaker pole at right angles to the boat and is immersed at a depth of three to four meters. On the up roll the plate opens and dampens the roll. We are sitting at anchor in a force 8 and are able to leave glasses, computers etc on the salon table in complete confidence that they will not slide off. In short we find that the flopper stopper gives our monohull multihull anchoring characteristics. We hope that this bit of kit will increase our enthusiasm for anchoring and help avoid those horrendous Mediterranean marina bills.

One area where Susannah was sadly lacking when we purchased her was her 12 volt system; she simply had two 100 amp hour batteries, one dedicated for engine starting and the other for the domestic systems. This meant that the small and poorly insulated fridge could not be safely run without the engine and that ice was not constantly available for Sheila’s gin and tonics. We decided to redesign the 12 volt electrical system and install a 240 volt shore-power system complete with a three phase smart charger. Using Nigel Calder’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual as our guide and mentor we conducted an assessment of our daily electrical needs in amp hours. The survey revealed two items with relatively large electrically draws; the fridge (about 50 amp hours per day) and the autohelm (variable draw depending on sea state, wind and sail trim, but likely to be relatively high).

We decided to adopt conservation measures in relation to both items. The autohelm was simply taken out of the electrical equation by purchasing and installing a hydrovane wind vane steering system (we call ours Humphrey). We chose the hydrovane over other systems as it seems to us to possess two distinct advantages over other wind vanes; it does not necessitate lines criss- crossing the cockpit – a major factor given that the Countess is a centre cockpit boat – and it has an auxiliary rudder which could be used as an emergency steering device. The hydrovane , in my opinion is the single best addition we have made to Susannah, it holds a course better than any helmsman in any wind conditions and is of extremely rugged construction, something that cannot be said of the rest of the crew.

As regards the fridge, I initially suggested that we managed without constant ice-making. After the near divorce, we ripped out the existing box and compressor and re-equipped with a larger box, four inch thick insulation, a new water-cooled compressor (we expect ambient air temperature in the Med to be so high as to make an air cooled compressor rather inefficient) with Isotherm’s self pumping water cooling system and automatic holding plate. This combination has successfully reduced our fridge generated amperage draw from 50 amp hours per day to approximately 10 (in UK conditions). All this cost about £3,000 and three months of hard work. However, we now simply leave the fridge constantly on without worrying about it and Sheila can have a constant supply of iced gin and tonic. 

Another, less expensive, conservation measure was to install a solar powered garden light (purchased from B and Q) as an anchor light. This achieves a saving of 8 amp hours per night – every little helps.

Even allowing for the above conservation measures our electrical needs survey revealed that Susannah required an average of 100 amp hours per day. Using the formulas in the Nigel Calder book this meant that we would need a domestic battery bank of about 400 amp hours in order to ensure that batteries are never discharged below 50% and that the fudge factor; an allowance for aging batteries, is catered for.

On the input side of the equation we upsized our alternator and fitted an Adverc battery management system which ensures that maximum amperage is put into the battery bank without ever overcharging and so gassing the batteries. If we were to rely on engine running alone to charge the batteries this system would be adequate. However, we intend to spend a lot of time at anchor and running the engine in this situation is far from ideal. First there is the peace and comfort of the anchorage to consider; after-all no-one appreciates a noisy smelly diesel running for a couple of hours every day. Secondly, as we all know, running an engine without load damages it while running it under load is likely to put extra strain on ground tackle or even break it out. A fundamental choice had to be made here between an engine driven generator (another engine to maintain!) or self- sufficient wind and solar panels. We opted for wind and solar panels, fitting Eclectic Energies D400 wind generator (which as I am writing this is pumping in 7 amps) and two 50 watt (i.e. maximum theoretical input) solar panels. Given wind and/or sun this equipment enables us to run our fridge and other electrical equipment without depleting the batteries. We never turn the fridge off or use the engine specifically for charging and yet our batteries are nearly always fully charged.

Lundy to Padstow - 41 Miles

Tresco Quay

Tresco quay
Originally uploaded by Yacht Susannah
MONDAY 9 JULY 2007

We set sail just after 6.00 a.m. in order to catch the tide around Hartland point – no time for a girl to do her ablutions! The forecast was Force 5 – 6, occasionally 7 later. We managed to sail the 40 miles to Padstow on one tack on a beam reach and arrived about 1.00 p.m. A large school of dolphins accompanied us for a while and two basking sharks were loitering near the entrance to the river at Padstow.

We decided to go into the harbour rather than pick up a buoy outside as the forecast was not good for the next day. As we entered the harbour, we looked nervously around to see if the Padstow life boat was inside – last August it reversed into us and caused about £3,000 worth of damage!

WILDLIFE: School of dolphins, two basking shark, guillemot, gannet
PADSTOW HARBOUR FEES: £16.95
















Swansea To Lundy - 54 Miles (40 Miles straight route)

Taking Sun Sights

Are we lost yet
Originally uploaded by Yacht Susannah
SUNDAY 8 JULY 2007

We were both quite touched that several friends turned up to see us off and ply us with last minute gifts. Some apparently with ulterior motives – Chris confessed that he had turned up in order to take any mooring lines that we would leave on the berth (we didn’t). Dianne and Graham on White Satin and Chris on Repeecheep accompanied us through the lock and escorted us out into the bay. Angie and Mike on passage back from Ilfracombe aboard Chaos radioed their goodbyes and Cariad, the beautiful Bristol Channel pilot cutter, kept station with us for a time.

With a force 4 on the nose for Lundy we beat on starboard tack out into the bay, just clearing the western end of the Scarweather sands. An ebb tide ensured that by lee bowing we made Ilfracombe on the same tack. Our second tack took us north of Lundy before we tacked again and picked up a buoy for the night at about 7.30p.m. too late to get to the Marisco Tavern for food so we had ‘Cassoulet de Canard’ on board to get into the French mood.

Sunday, 8 July 2007

Susannah with her Welsh flag






Susannah is now ready to go and for once we can see a blue sky after the past few weeks of wind and rain.
Susannah with her Welsh Flag

Goodbye to my car



This is the last time I will be able to drive my car which I have owned from new - six years!
Farewell party at Swansea Yacht Club
Jane will be our mission control at home