Thursday 6 September 2007

The mother of all tangles!

The mother of all tangles!


TUESDAY 21 AUGUST 2007

Perhaps the worst aspect of this experience was that it went on and on all through the night; the wind had strengthened about 6 p.m. on Monday and it wasn't until about 8 a.m. the following day that the wind dropped to a 6 and 7. We had both stayed up all night, playing games and frequent checks on the anchors and position of the boat. I was then able to leave Sheila on anchor watch and catch up on some sleep.

By eight p.m. the wind had moderated to a 4 and we decided to try to re-anchor in mid river away from the wall.

Surprisingly I was easily able to free the kedge warp from the back of the boat and led it to the bow in order to recover the Danforth anchor. This, however, proved extremely difficult; even with the aid of the electric windlass we just could not break it out. We began to suspect that it had fouled the Delta anchor chain so we changed tactics and started to wind in the main chain. An incredible tangle of chain and anchors eventually broke the surface; the kedge and the Bruce together with their respective chains were wrapped around the Delta chain in a serpents’ honeymoon of a tangle. The only way we finally managed to clear this mess was to lean precariously outside the pulpit and unshackle the Danforth (having attached a line to its crown). We were then able to pull the kedge chain clear and slide the anchor out of the knotted chain.


The Bruce proved even more difficult to extract. This was achieved by full fathom coiling, tying the coil (i.e. 100 meters of 12mm anchor plait) and then passing the entire coil over and under the Delta chain, all the while nervously checking that we were still holding. This process involved a few near headfirst entries into the River Suances, but ultimately proved successful. One relatively minor mishap was that unnoticed my barbed fish lure, which I foolishly keep in the kedge warp drum, first attached itself to the kedge warp and then to my thumb. It occurred to me that the tangled anchors had probably acted as an effective angel; weighing down the Delta chain.

Finally, in the gathering twilight we were able to anchor in mid river away from both walls with 30 meters of chain on the Delta and, after re-shackling and seizing the Danforth, 20 meters of kedge warp. We had a curry and a bottle of Rioja – it had never tasted so good and went to bed feeling relatively safe.

Suances and Our Scariest Time Ever!

This wall came too close on several occasions!

SUNDAY 19 - MONDAY 20 AUGUST 2007

ROGER'S BLOG

It was very windy in the night and rained heavily. It didn’t look very pleasant in the morning so we spent the next day comfortably at anchor, having laid a kedge to stop us swinging with the tide. Unfortunately, there are still problems with the internet connection. It took an hour and a half discussion to find out that because the gigabyte wasn’t registered correctly at the beginning, we were being charged at the extortionate rate of 2 euros per 10 minutes, and we had used up the 60 euros! It was not possible buy another Gigabyte without going ashore. Who would have thought it would be so difficult!

The next morning Navtex was forecasting gale force 8 building to 9! However, we had noticed for the last week that the Navtex forecasts tended to be accurate for the offshore sea areas but significantly overestimated wind strength for inshore, coastal sailing. Moreover, the last check on internet weather sites (the previous day) had not indicated anything more than a Force 4 for our part of the Cantabrican coast. At the time the sun was out and the river calm, although the wind was westerly Force 4 to 5, so we decided to stay at anchor in the river and to go ashore in the dinghy.

Suances is a small coastal resort with magnificent beaches, bars and restaurants, but not much else. Nevertheless, we had a pleasant morning; posted some letters, re-provisioned and consumed a Menu del Dia. We went back to the boat and had a siesta only to awake to a Force 6 gusting 7 and the barometer dropping! Sheila decided that we should lash the dinghy on deck and put the outboard on its bracket as at this stage it was occasionally taking off as it was tied to the back of the boat! This we managed without too much difficulty and were sitting in the cockpit discussing whether to let out more chain when we started to drag towards the rocks (i.e. wall). Sheila ran forward and started getting the anchor up while I started the engine with the idea of motoring forward and re-anchoring.

The rocks were close on our port side and the north-westerly wind on our starboard bow – blowing us towards them! I put on full starboard lock and revs in an attempt to drive the bow through the wind and away from the wall. By now the wind had increased to a good Force 8 with stronger gusts and I could not get the bow through the wind. The jagged rocks were getting very close. I changed tactics and put on full port lock and just managed to clear the wall heading off upriver and downwind – the kedge anchor had remained deployed throughout this manoeuvre and was dragging behind us. We had avoided putting the boat on the rocks by only a couple of meters. At least the kedge warp was stretched tight so I had no fears of a prop-wrap at this stage. When we were in mid river I asked Sheila to drop the main delta anchor and let out 30 meters of chain. She looked at me with wide, rabbit caught in the headlights, eyes and said “I’ve cocked up”. Further enquiries elicited the fact that the anchor chain had bunched up under the windlass and was now solidly in a jam. Muttering something about not being able to get the staff, I ran forward and feverishly tugged at the tangled chain. We were drifting at about 6 knots with a good Force 8 behind us on a tangential course for the rocky wall on the opposite side of the river. I realised that I would not be able to free the chain jam in time to stop us coming into fatal contact with the wall so I hastily threw our second anchor, a 40 lb Bruce over and released 30 meters of warp – guessing that this would be short enough to hold us off the wall, but long enough for the anchor to dig in. After a few more minutes of frantic pulling at the tangled chain I managed to free it and dropped the main Delta anchor and let out 30 meters of chain.

The boat had swung head to wind as the Bruce and Delta anchors dug in, trapping the kedge warp under the boat close to the prop; we were now to all intents engineless. We watched nervously as the boat swung within a boat length of the wall and then held. Sheila, a confirmed atheist, prayed (not for the last time that night) and I changed my trousers.

There then followed the most anxious and nerve racking night I have ever spent on a boat. As the wind shifted slightly and the tide turned we swung closer to the wall, at times it appeared that we were within 2 meters! Also as the tide ebbed jagged rocks became visible at the base of the wall. Both of us stayed up all night monitoring the situation. Sheila continuously put waypoints on the chartplotter while I initially used transits. However, we were swinging so dramatically that transits proved of little use and I reverted to simply estimating the distance from the rocks. There was little we could do if we swung any closer, but we discussed two possible courses of action.

The first involved quickly releasing the kedge warp and hoping that it would float clear of the prop so we could use the engine to move away from the wall towards our brace of anchors. We buoyed the end of the kedge warp ready for this form of action, but given the wind (our instruments recorded 43 knots!) I had my doubts about whether we would be able to motor against it and the waves even assuming the warp cleared the stern.

Plan B was to run the engine in neutral, but with high revs in order to supply sufficient power to the electric windlass for us to pull ourselves clear of the wall. This would inevitably shorten our scope and therefore reduce our holding power (not to mention the enormous strain on the drive shaft of the windlass), but would have the advantage of not risking a prop-wrap.

Both of us believed that we would lose the boat, but in an attempt to minimise damage we put all our fenders out. We donned our wet weather gear and lifejackets, put flares in our pockets, rigged the searchlight, tuned the radio to channel 16 and prepared to make a mayday. Although we swung very close to the wall we survived the ebb; the flood seemed to hold us a little further away and we relaxed enough to play Boggle a scrabble type spelling game – the word “die” seemed to crop up quite a lot. Sheila was so distracted by fear, I even won a couple of games! At least we could play with all the cabin lights on and no fear of running down the batteries; the wind generator sounded like it was going to take off as it pumped in 13 amps.

Practical Boatowner magazine runs a series of articles entitled “Learning from Experience”. Well I guess we have learnt to take the worst case weather forecast as gospel.

Santander To Suances - 30 Miles (1008 total)

Suances from upriver


SATURDAY 18 AUGUST 2007

Chris dropped us off at the Marina and we sailed to Suances, about 18 miles away. The wind was on the nose, so we had to tack for the first time since crossing the English Channel. 

The entrance to Suances is quite narrow with extensive sandbanks on the starboard side, and the river is not very deep. In addition, there is a bar to cross which breaks heavily with onshore winds, particularly on the ebb. Entry is recommended on the last third of the flood. We arrived about 5.30 p.m., three hours before high tide and still managed to touch bottom, albeit once safely across the bar. 

We anchored near the local mooring buoys in 3 meters with a scope of 15 meters of 10mm chain. The river is bounded on both sides by stonewalls i.e. a jumble of jagged rocks only just showing at high tide. We had mackerel for tea – Roger had been successful again!

Bilbao and Guernica

San Roke Festival, Guernica


THURSDAY 16 - FRIDAY 17 AUGUST 2007

We met Tracy and Max at the Guggenheim in Bilbao about lunch time, but the queue was so long we decided to go straight to Guernica. 

The Basque parliament used to hold their meetings under an ancient oak tree in the town until 1876. During the Spanish Civil War on 26 April 1937 Franco asked Hitler to destroy the town, and about 2,000 men, women and children were killed as the planes bombed the town on market day. We visited the Peace Museum which told the story of the massacre and looked at wider implications of war and world peace. It was the 70th anniversary of the bombing and there was an exhibition of Picasso’s preparatory sketches for his painting of the massacre and a copy of the painting itself.

Guernica’s five day San Roke festival was taking place, and the whole town was in Fiesta mood, with tables laid out along the pavements with food and wine as a variety of entertainments took place, including brass bands, dancing, children’s entertainment and dancing groups. We went to see the national Basque game Pelota, which is rather like squash but played with the bare hand. As we headed towards the car after a meal, there was a fantastic firework display.

The weather improved on Friday so after a late start and long lunch with Max and Tracy (including several bottles of wine) we spent the afternoon on the beach and had a Bar-B-Que at the caravan – our first Bar-B-Que this year!

SANTANDER MARINA: 40 euros a night, free showers

Altamara Caves and Santillana del Mar

Santillana del Mar


WEDNESDAY 15 AUGUST 2007

We set off in Chris’s car for the caves at Altamara, which have some of the oldest and most impressive cave paintings in Europe. The actual caves are only open to researchers as they were being damaged by human breath, but there is a very impressive Museo where there is a full sized recreation of the cave and a fantastic interpretation centre. Tracy, Max and the children joined us and we spent nearly all day there, with a Menu del Dia in the middle. We then went to the medieval village of Santillana del Mar, which has beautiful old buildings but is quite touristy.




Roger and I moved Susannah into the Marina, about 2 kilometres from the city, had a meal with Chris, Jane and Tommy at the yacht club before going back to stay in their caravan for a few nights.

Santander

Jane carrying the EPIRB


TUESDAY 14 AUGUST 2007

Chris, Jane and Tommy joined us on Susannah for lunch, bringing the EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) with them which Roger had ordered about 4 weeks before we left, but had been out of stock. 

We had a lovely lunch on the boat, swam and went for a sail in the afternoon. In the evening, we went for a meal as it was our wedding anniversary. There was a problem with the internet connection, as it seems the gigabyte I bought yesterday had not yet been registered. I had to ring Vodafone to try and sort it out – without much success.

Santander - Chris and Jane's ferry arriving

Chris and Jane's ferry arriving in Santander


MONDAY 13 AUGUST 2007


It was a beautiful day and Roger and I waited for Chris and Jane’s ferry to arrive from Plymouth. The ferry passed quite close to us and Chris, Jane and Tommy were waving from the top deck. They went off with Max and Tracy to find their caravan site and Roger and I went into town to get our internet connection (hopefully) and finally found a computer shop that had the portable Vodafone internet modem and then went to a Vodafone shop to buy a gigabyte of memory which cost 60 euros. We had a Menu del Dia and took the washing to a launderette and the gas bottle to be changed.

Santander

Roger taking the gas bottle for a walk!



SUNDAY 12 AUGUST 2007


We re-anchored nearer the yacht club and out of the path of the ferries and went to see where there was a launderette, a place to change the gas bottle and a Vodafone shop. The yacht club was very friendly and didn’t mind us using their steps and walking through their foyer in wet shoes, carrying bags of washing and gas bottles. After the lunch time Menu del Dia, we had a siesta in the cockpit.





SANTANDER YACHT CLUB: Anchored for free, but would have been 30 euros a night in the yacht club marina. Showers cost 5 euros each, probably free in the Marina

Bilbao to Santander - 39 Miles



SATURDAY 11 AUGUST 2007


We left the anchorage about 11.00 a.m. and had a good sail of between 5.5 and 7 knots to Santander in lovely weather, and Roger caught a mackerel for our tea. 


We anchored off the Santander Yacht Club about 5.30 p.m. There were quite a few mooring buoys belonging to the Yacht Club, and after we’d anchored we realised we were in the direct line of the ferries that ran constantly back and forth, although we were out of the main channel. They didn’t seem to mind us being there, but I just hoped they kept away and didn’t hit us!

Fish for dinner!


Getaria to Bilbao - 47 Miles

Transporter Bridge, Bilbao



THURSDAY 9 - FRIDAY 10 AUGUST 2007

After breakfast in the café and getting diesel, we sailed to Bilbao and Roger fished. The wind died so we motor sailed and anchored just outside Getxo Marina about 8.30 p.m. It was a very sheltered, peaceful anchorage.

The next day we went to Getxo and found a Vodafone shop to buy an internet modem. They were very helpful and told us what we needed, but then said they hadn’t got it! We got the metro to another shop and they hadn’t got one either. We then got the metro to Bilbao and arrived at the shop just as they were closing for lunch at 1.30 p.m. and didn’t really want to serve us, but said they hadn’t got one. The shops wouldn’t be open until 5.30 so we decided to give up and try again in Santander. The shops won’t phone other Vodafone shops for us, as they are franchised.


We took two large bags of washing to the Getxo Marina, where there were two very small washing machines, one of which was in use already. We put one small load on to wash and went to find somewhere to change the gas bottle, to be told the nearest was 3 kilometres way! We had a drink waiting for the washing, but in the meantime someone had locked the door to the facilities, and as we were not moored in the Marina, we didn’t have a key. I found the Capitaneria and managed to get the door unlocked. The washing took two hours, so we decided to leave the rest until we got to Santander.

It had been quite an unsuccessful day and felt in need of a nice Basque meal, but there were very few restaurants, and they were very expensive, catering for tourists rather than the excellent Basque cuisine, so we went for the cheap option of a Buffet Chinese at 8.50 euros each.

Getaria

Juan-Sebastian de Elcano
Skipper of the Elcano
WEDNESDAY 8 AUGUST 2007

Another British boat, Hunters Moon, berthed behind us and when we started talking we realised we had met John and Elaine years ago in Ilfracombe.  They were sailing a boat called Shalaine and the Harbour Master had told them to moor further up the quayside.  They had been concerned about the depth of water but the Harbour Master had assured them there would be enough water at high tide.  Next morning, at high tide, they tried to leave and were grounded!  In the end the Harbour Master bought a shovel and dug a channel for Shalaine which managed to get off on the next high tide.  He blamed it on high pressure!  The shovel was kept in the Harbour Master's office and became known as 'The Shalaine Shovel'.


We had also met up with them four years ago in Vivero. They live in Spain and had been taking Shalaine, which they share with another couple, to Spain. This year they were taking Hunters Moon to Spain and the other couple were sailing Shalaine back to Britain.


We had breakfast in a café with them and Roger and I explored the lovely Basque town of Getaria. The church is about 14th Century and is very unusual as the floor slopes upwards, and the road runs underneath it. There was a model of the Victoria in the church. In the evening we had a meal with John and Elaine.

St. Jean de Luz, France to Getaria, Spain - 25 Miles



TUESDAY 7 AUGUST 2007

The Victoria being towed in



We left St. Jean de Luz about 11.00 a.m. but I felt very ill with a pounding headache. I tried to sleep most of the way but was also very sick. This was the first time I had been sick, but it was a virus rather than seasickness. We berthed alongside the waiting pontoon at Getaria, but the harbour master said there was no room for us. Then the skipper of a Spanish boat who had helped us tie up, said he was leaving in the evening, and we could go in his space. I was too ill to go anywhere!

We’d arrived just before Getaria’s big festival which happens once every four years. Juan Sebastian Elcano and his 17 crew had set off with Magellan in 1519 trying to find a passage to India across the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. All the other boats and crew, including Magellan, had perished, but Elcano returned in 1522 with his crew, the first to have circumnavigated the world. The festival is a re-enactment of their ship Victoria returning to Getaria. There were hundreds of people lining the quayside (I thought they were there for us) and as the fishing boats full of people set off to escort Victoria into the harbour they all began to sing.

I was still feeling very ill and went to bed. Roger wandered around Getaria and started chatting to a French couple and some Spaniards moored near us, and invited them on board to look around. Luckily he didn’t invite them into our cabin, as I just wanted to die quietly and peacefully.

GETARIA MARINA: 14 euros, free showers; very friendly staff
Diesel: 99c