Tuesday 14 August 2007

Not the calmest of anchorages!

Not the calmest of Anchorages!



MONDAY 6 AUGUST 2007

ST. JEAN DE LUZ

We spent the day at anchor, as it was too rough to go ashore in the dinghy, so we gave up the idea of going to Baiona. It was comfortable enough in the morning, but by the afternoon we were getting 28 knots of wind and Susannah was pulling hard on the anchor. Waves were breaking at the harbour entrance and on the beach – in fact surfers were surfing the harbour entrance! I was not a happy bunny and kept checking the anchor but the delta does seem very good. It had calmed down enough by evening for me to enjoy a game of boggle in the cockpit.

St. Jean de Luz and the prop wrap

SUNDAY 5 AUGUST 2007


Roger going in to sort the prop wrap


ROGER'S BLOG


Before breakfast, I donned my wetsuit and armed with a sharp bread knife snorkelled down to discover the mother of all prop wraps. A north westerly swell was making its way into the bay and Susannah was rolling and hitting me on the head – my second favourite bit of anatomy – as I dived and hacked at the wrap. Unfortunately, while the rope cutter had proved totally ineffective against the pot buoy line, it did a very good job of cutting my finger – an injury which bled badly and required steri-strips.

We experimented by lashing the bread knife to the boathook and attempted to saw through the wrap from the comfort of the dinghy but this did not seem to be having any affect. In the end, I reverted to diving, sawing, coming up for air, diving, sawing etc. Eventually I managed to hack all the line off, but was unable to save the pot buoy for the fisherman. We play on the sea – these guys try to make a living from it.

This was the fifth prop wrap that I have sorted out on various boats and easily the worst. Usually, it takes a few slashes with the knife and the rope drops of. This took about an hour, numerous dives and an injured finger.

It was good to get the wetsuit off, rebandage the finger, clean the blood out of the cockpit and sit in the morning sun eating two day old croissants and drinking filtered coffee. While relaxing in this way we idly watched a fisherman motoring around looking for his missing pot buoy. We confessed and apologised in broken French; he seemed very philosophical about it, possibly because there is no French word to express the same degree of urgency as the Spanish ‘manana’ or, more likely, because if you leave unlit pot buoys overnight in an approach to an anchorage you can expect to lose a few.

SHEILA'S  BLOG

By the time we had reset the anchor, rigged the flopper stopper and launched the dinghy it was nearly lunch time. We had a look around St. Jean de Luz, which has lovely Basque buildings but was very busy as August is the main French holiday, and seemed very expensive for meals. We called in to the very small marina to find out how much a berth was, as we wanted to go to Baiona tomorrow. It was 58 euros! We decided to stay at anchor.

The wind was getting stronger, so we found a cafĂ© hoping for it to ease, but instead it increased in strength. The forecast was only force 4 – 5, but we should have paid more attention to the Barometer dropping yesterday. We went to the dinghy, but the sea was quite choppy by now and Susannah was hobby horsing. We spoke to the local water sports company who said the wind probably was about a 5 but there was a 3 meter swell coming in and it wasn’t going to get any worse or better. He let us launch the dinghy from their pontoon, rather than battle through the waves on the beach, and set one of the young lads to follow us in his jet ski – which was just as well. I got the full force of the waves breaking into the dinghy and was cold and wet by the time we reached the boat. I tied a bowline (as I thought) jumped on board, and then turned around to see Roger floating off in the dinghy. Luckily, the boy on the jet ski towed him back to the boat.

Susannah rode to the waves head on but did not roll side to side with the ‘flopper stopper’ so we had a reasonably comfortable night.

Arcachon to St. Jean de Luz - 77 Miles overnight

Now this is what I call sailing!



SATURDAY 4 AUGUST 2007

ROGER’S BLOG

We motored around the Basin D’Arcachon looking for somewhere to anchor for a trip ashore. Once again, all the anchorages were taken up with hundreds of moorings with small boats on them, the tide was quite strong  2 – 3 knots and there were motor boats and jet skis racing about everywhere. In the end, we tried to pick up a buoy, but were chased off by a French official. We tried somewhere else, and ended up with the buoy under the boat which then sliced the pick up buoy off. We gave up on the idea of going ashore in Arcachon and thought we’d anchor in the lagoon by the Dune de Pyla, which is a 103 foot sand dune 8 kilometres south of Arcachon and is the largest sand dune in Europe. It is spreading eastwards at about 4.5 metres a year and has already swallowed trees, a road junction and a hotel! According to the Pilot Book, there are four Eastern Cardinal Buoys marking the narrow channel. We got to the position where they were supposed to be and followed what we thought should be the channel, but when the depth sounder was reading 0.08 under the keel, and bearing in mind we were on a falling tide, we decided to turn tail and give up with this place altogether. We decided we really didn’t like Arcachon and wanted to get away as fast as possible.

By now it was 1 p.m. and we were on half tide, but the estuary was very flat as there was no wind, and visibility was excellent, so we set sail for St. Jean de Luz in the French Basque country. This would mean a 4 a.m. night arrival but would give us another 70 miles or so of ‘southing’ I am a trifle nervous in this south east sector of Biscay. With all my previous Biscay crossings, my instincts have led me to stay well out to the west of the continental shelf, so this is literally unknown territory. The landsman fears the sea, the sailor fears the land and a wimp like me fears both!

In any event, the passage from Arcachon to St. Jean de Luz was a delight. A westerly sea breeze during the day gave us a cruising chute and full main broad reach in glorious hot sun. At night, the sea breeze died and we motor-sailed on a smooth silver moonlit sea, with shooting stars, a firework display from Bayona 20 miles away and star spotting to keep us occupied.

However, we had noticed that the barometer had dropped 5 millibars in 6 hours – a sure sign of a coming deterioration. Most sailing schools tell you that a drop of 6 millibars in three hours will be followed by a Force 6 and one of 8 millibars in three hours be a Force 8. In my experience, this is true but of limited practical use as you have usually insufficient time to seek shelter. Of more value is the 4/5/6 rule which says that a drop of 4 or 5 millibars in a six hour period will be followed, albeit not immediately, by a significant deterioration.

I was perhaps musing on the significance of barometric pressure drops as we motored towards the anchorage in the bay of St. Jean de Luz at 4.00 a.m., because I didn’t see the lobster pot buoy flag sliding down the side of the boat. Sheila spotted it and we immediately put the engine in neutral and peered behind into the dark to see whether the buoy had floated free. Although we had not seen the buoy, we tentatively engaged forward gear and the boat responded. We are equipped with a razor sharp rope cutter on the prop shaft and I just hoped that it had done its job. We dropped anchor, I put the engine in reverse to stop the boat and ‘bang’ – the engine stopped – we had a wrap!

Given the lack of wind, we decided to drop the 16 kilo delta anchor and 50 metres of 10mm chain and wait for daylight to clear the pot buoy line, and hoped that we would not drag, as presumably we were also still anchored to the pot buoy.

Royan to Arcachon - 77 Miles

Roger's second catch



FRIDAY 3 AUGUST 2007

We left Royan Marina about 8.00 a.m. to catch the tide and we’d got a long way to go. It was a beautiful morning at first, but dark clouds had gathered before we left, threatening rain. There was a flat sea with no wind, so we motored. The clouds disappeared and by 2 p.m. it was lovely and warm. We managed to sail from about 4 p.m. and Roger fished and actually caught a good sized mackerel which we put in some water in the washing up bowl in the cockpit. Not very hygienic but it was the only thing we could grab quickly as we hadn’t expected to catch anything.

Roger then decided to fly the cruising chute, which ended up in the usual tangle. I wondered aloud who would be the first to step on the mackerel. It was Roger. The cruising chute increased our speed to 6.5 – 7.5 knots – sometimes touching 8 knots – which was too fast for me, having been in a boat which broached in the past. Roger then caught the biggest mackerel I have ever seen – it bit Roger’s finger as he took it off the hook!

The pilot book for Arcachon says to arrive about an hour either side of high water as the strength of the ebb can be up to 6 knots and there may not be enough water at low water, and the seas break over the bank. The buoys which mark the channel are moved regularly as the sand banks keep moving.

Arrival in Arcachon was rather stressful – the buoyage had been changed to match shifting sandbanks, but this meant our paper charts and chart plotter could no longer be relied on. It was against all my instincts to steer over what my charts told me were drying banks with insufficient depth for our draft. Moreover, just as we were negotiating the dangerous bar, the wind piped up to a north westerly 5 – 6, producing steep breaking waves. It was essential to find each buoy in order, which was difficult in such poor conditions.

Once over the bar, we went quite a way looking for a place to anchor. All the marked anchorages were taken up with buoys with small boats on them and looked very rolly. We eventually managed to make our way up to the Basin D’Arcachon as dusk fell and found a vacant buoy in a relatively sheltered corner. The Basin D’Arcachon is a vast area, 70% of which dries at low water. By now it was 10.00 p.m. and despite being very tired, we prepared and cooked the mackerel that we had caught earlier, which were extremely tasty. We kept the head and tails as bait for the new prawn pot which we bought in Royan.

We don’t think we like Arcachon very much – the entrance was awful, there are too many small boats on buoys and nowhere to anchor.

ROGER’S BLOG

FISHING

En route from Royan I experimented with a ‘paravane’ trolling board – a six inch long mini plastic surf board, which is trailed behind the boat on 50 metres of line with various fish lures attached. In the event of a catch, the board inverts and surfaces so that you can see there is something on the line. Although the recommended speed for trolling is under 5 knots, I was averaging 6 – 6.5 knots with the cruising chute and full main, so did not really expect to catch anything. However, wonder of wonders, the thing worked! I caught a large mackerel which would have made a decent meal for two. The second catch was even better. With some difficulty I pulled in the biggest mackerel I have ever seen! Unfortunately, this brought an abrupt halt to fishing as both Sheila and I believe that you should only take from the sea what you can eat.


MAN OVERBOARD PROCEDURES

One of the great fears for a cruising couple is the possibility of a man overboard situation. Of course, the real nightmare scenario would be if the most skilled member fell overboard leaving he weaker crew member to effect a recovery manoeuvre and, most difficult of all, hoist the casualty back on board.

Given the prospect of some 14 hours of boring motor-sailing in less than Force 2 winds on the uninspiring stretch from Royan to Arcachon, I had ample time to reflect on MOB procedures. We have two alternative methods, both requiring minimal skill and training. This last point is particularly important as Sheila is adverse to practicing recovery procedures to cope with the unfortunate possibility of me falling overboard. Indeed, Sheila’s preferred coping strategy consists of increasing my life insurance!

Method one requires no special equipment and is slightly controversial. The casualty falls in, the helmsman heaves to – assuming we are sailing – in order to stop the boat, and takes a rough bearing on the man overboard – simply sighting along the ship’s compass. Helmsman then presses the DSC distress button on the VHF radio and holds it in until the distress message is sent (i.e. 5 seconds). Controversially, we make no attempt at a spoken message. Having been involved in a real Mayday situation last year when we rescued two divers, we know how the coastguard seem to have no conception of what it is like on a lightly crewed yacht in an emergency situation and happily keep the radio operator tied up when he would be more useful on deck.

The helmsman then starts the engine, rolls up the headsail and sheets in the mainsheet hard. Given that the boat has been hove to up till now the casualty should be roughly on the same bearing as that noted earlier – both man overboard and the boat will drift with the tide at the same speed. The helm can now steer the boar back to the casualty. It does not matter whether the turn around is a tack or a gybe as we are sheeted in hard.

We depart from the RYA textbook MOB under engine manoeuvre which advocates approaching the casualty straight into wind. Instead, we position the boat between the casualty and the wind with the wind hitting the boat at 90 degrees on the beam. No attempt is made to get particularly close to the MOB - about 10 – 15 metres away is fine. Gentle forward and reverse are then used to keep the casualty in line with the shrouds and, as if by magic, the casualty appears to float in to the leeward side of the boat – actually, the boat is really drifting down on the casualty.

This method has several advantages. Minimal boat handling skill is required, the casualty is clearly visible from the helm at all times reducing the risk of running him/her over. The textbook method involves the helm losing sight of the casualty in the final stages, given a yacht with relatively high freeboard like Susannah. The pick up being on the leeward side ensures that the boat itself acts as a wave breaker, sheltering the casualty. Finally, the boat will be heeled towards the casualty, reducing the vertical distance for the casualty to get on deck.

Experienced sailors have expressed doubts about whether this method would work in strong winds, but I have tried it in various boats in all wind strengths up to Force 7. Provided the mainsail is reefed appropriately for the conditions, it works find. Indeed, a problem occurs in light winds, less than Force 1, when the boat is not blown down quickly enough on the casualty.

As regards the really difficult bit of hoisting the casualty back on board, we adopt the following procedure. The helm digs out a mooring warp from the cockpit locker, advances to the midships position where the casualty is pinned against the side of the boat, and throws a loop around the casualty. If the sea is relatively flat the casualty can now be led to the back of the boat where he/she can climb the boarding ladder – assuming a conscious casualty.

In rough conditions the stern of the boat will slam making it a dangerous place. The midships position will be the most stable and safest place for the recovery. The line around the casualty can be tied in a loop with a non-slip knot – a bowline is ideal - and then tied to a spare halyard. The helm then uses the mechanical advantage of a winch to wind the casualty out of the water and onto the deck. Sheila has successfully winched me up the mast so this recovery method should work. Indeed, on one memorable occasion, she left me stranded at the top having been distracted by a team of university male rowers who had taken advantage of a particularly fine day to shed their upper garments. At least one assumes it was only their upper garments, but given the complexity of the riding turn that she managed to produce on the winch, it could have been more!


However, if I put on more weight following too frequent visits to wonderful French restaurants and am drenched in heavy water logged clothes Sheila could resort to the electric anchor winch and haul me up.

Thursday 2 August 2007

Les Sables d'Olonne - Ile de Re - Royan

MONDAY 30 JULY 2007


LES SABLES D’OLONNE TO ILE DE RE – 40 MILES


What a difference a day makes! It was a beautiful morning – warm and sunny. We had run out of butane gas and had changed to our camping gaz bottle, but although we had bought the Camping Gaz bottle and regulator when we were in Spain before, Roger had since fitted a gas solenoid which meant the bottle did not fit neatly in the gas locker. So we did what we seem to do every foreign holiday in the boat – we went searching for a new regulator. Roger bought a new, stronger hand-line for fishing. He seems to think it’s the equipment at fault, rather than his fishing skills.


We left Les Sables D’Olonne after lunch. The sea was flat and we sailed at about 4 – 5 knots. Roger wore shorts for the first time! Roger trailed the hand-line but it got caught between two buoys (unfortunately I was at the helm at the time) and we lost all the flies on the line.


We had slowed down to about 2-3 knots, so we flew the cruising chute. Although we have got a snuffer, it seemed to tangle a lot. Eventually we got it sorted and speed increased to 6 knots. When we tacked the cruising shute, it tore about 1ft in the sail which Roger had to sew.
We anchored at Ile de Re about 10.15 pm, clear of the shipping channel, just as the sun was setting.


WEDNESDAY  1 – 2 AUGUST 2007

The stop at Royan gave us a good chance to catch up on the washing, shopping and boat jobs. There was a leak on the back flush system on the watermaker which needed to be fixed, and the sacrificial strip on the headsail had started coming apart, which we stuck. Roger also bought some more lures and feathers to continue his fishing. He then oiled all his moving parts and greased his cocks!

The usual cruising chute tangle



Ile de Yeu to Les Sables d'Olonne - 31 Miles

La Chaume, Les Sables d'Olonne




SUNDAY 29 JULY 2007

It was a drizzly, grey morning – what happened to that Med feeling? We left about 12.00 p.m. having had a look around the town and done some shopping. Visibility was very poor, verging on fog at times, so radar and 'see me' were turned on for the first time since crossing the channel. We had a beam reach all the way and arrived at Les Sables d’Olonne about 4.30 p.m. Just as we arrived the visibility dropped as a shower came through. There were ferries going in and out of the harbour, with yachts and windsurfers in the entrance to add to the confusion. 

I was very disappointed that there was no welcoming crowd for us, as there was when Elen McArthur arrived after her solo round the world trip! Roger said I should have jumped up and down on the foredeck holding flares, crying ‘I couldn’t have done it without my shore crew!’ - so thanks to all our shore crew!

 

LES SABLES D’OLONNE MARINA FEES: 29.50 euros – 2 euros for showers.

Saint-Nazaire to Ile de Yeu - 37 Miles

White houses of Ile de Yeu



SATURDAY 28 JULY 2007


We went through on the 10.00 a.m. lock. We had had a look to see how to moor the boat in the lock yesterday. There are metal straps going down the side of the lock, and you have to hold on to these, or wrap a warp around them, like the lock at Bristol. We were prepared for this, but ended up moored against a low part of the wall which meant I couldn’t reach the metal strip. We had to quickly improvise and managed to get the ropes tangled. I spoke to the skipper of a yacht who moored alongside us ‘C’est dificile’, and he politely said ‘Ah, vous etes debutantes!’ The French have a lovely way with words!

We managed to sail most of the way in a Force 3 – 4, close reached and arrived at the Marina in Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu about 6 p.m. There is a definite Mediterranean look with white houses, red roofs and blue shutters.

ILE DE YEU MARINA FEES: 28.00 euros – discounted because we had to stay on the waiting pontoon, which suited us better. Showers are free. Showers and loos were unisex and there was no indication which ones were occupied, so you had to be sure you locked the door!