Melilla - Spanish Enclave

Fort at Melilla

WEDNESDAY 25 - FRIDAY 27 JUNE 2008

The morning after we arrived a brass band started up when a very large Spanish naval vessel arrived - Melilla is Spain’s largest naval base and the town has been in the hands of the Spanish since 1497.

David on the boat next door, who suffers from diabetes, had had a stroke and the ambulance and fire brigade had quite a problem getting him out as he was stuck at the chart table. As they lifted him out he clung to his boat, not wanting to let go. It’s frightening how quickly these things can happen. He was talking to us in the morning and by lunch time he was critically ill in hospital.

It was very hot – about 40 degrees and 31 degrees in the boat! It seems we have found the Mediterranean heat at last, although Roger is saying it’s too hot! We rigged the wind scoops over the hatches which worked for the forward hatch but because of the bimini over the cockpit there isn’t a flow of air to the aft hatch. It was my turn to suffer from Moroccan tummy, but it only lasted a couple of days.

Melilla has quite a good shopping centre near the old fort and a lovely long beach. The mix of people is interesting, as about 40% of the population is Moroccan.

The Marina is excellent with several tapas bars and cafes and very helpful staff – the only down side is that the bars seem to turn into night clubs and go on until 6 a.m.! However, at 8 euros a night, Melilla has got to be one of the cheapest moorings in the Western Med, so we are seriously considering putting the boat here for the winter. One of the disadvantages would be the extra journey by plane or ferry from Malaga.

Al Hoceima to Melilla - 60 Miles

Leaving Al-Hoceima

TUESDAY 24 JUNE 2008

We decided to leave early because we had a long sail ahead of us and went to check out with the police, together with the French couple. We had to wait until 8.30 a.m. when the police came on duty and we had to wait ages for them to deal with the passports. We said we wanted to anchor in Ras Baraket, a small bay and were told this would be Ok. We then had to wait for the customs men to arrive – four of them arrived in a car and the police took a photo of our boat. We told them that we wanted to anchor in Ras Baraket and they said it would not be permitted as the area is heavily patrolled because of drugs and immigration. We told the police we hadn’t paid the port fees, and they said if no one came to ask for it, not to worry. All the police and customs were very friendly but it seemed to take a long time to check out. We finally left about 9.15 a.m.

There was quite a swell when we left until we rounded Cabo Quilates and then the sea was completely flat with no wind. We spotted dolphins about 3 times but they weren’t very interested in us. The autohelm stopped working completely and we had to hand steer the whole way. We had to transfer diesel at sea – not the best transfer we’ve ever done as one of the cans fell on its side when the boat rolled.

We arrived in Melilla about 8.30 p.m. Moroccan time, 9.30 p.m. Spanish time and the phones went on to Spanish networks. Melilla is another Spanish enclave on the Moroccan coast. We picked up the Mediterranean mooring with the help of the Marinero and the people on the next boat, who are from Britain and have been here for four years!


Marina: 8 Euros a night including electricity, water, good showers and free wi-fi (albeit slow). The cheapest Marina yet.

Cala Iris to Al-Hoceima - 25 MIles

Beach at Al-Hoceima

MONDAY 23 JUNE 2008

It was a misty start to the day, so we put the radar up. After telling the police we were leaving, we sailed past Penon de Velez where there is a rock still in possession of the Spanish which the Moroccans would like back. We spotted dolphins, but they didn’t come and play with the boat.

We motor-sailed the whole way and the wind got up and the sun came out just as we arrived. We berthed on the quay opposite the ferry terminal, which is covered in guano. There was one another visiting boat there belonging to a French couple who have a flat in Lagos. A policeman and policewoman came on board and looked in a lot of the lockers on the boat.

When all the formalities were over we walked up the steep hill to the town and had lunch in a restaurant overlooking the beautiful bay. I bought a leather belt hand made by the Berbers from a very friendly shopkeeper, and because we said ‘Thank You’ in Arabic ('Shukran') he taught us to say ‘Thank You’ in Berber.

El-Jebha to Cala Iris - 17 Miles

Cala Iris Bay

SUNDAY 22 JUNE 2008

Barbara and Tudor left for Malaga and we set off for Cala Iris. Roger realized his fishing hand line had been stolen from the boat. We were quite surprised as the Harbour Master had told us there was no crime here, and people could leave their doors open. However, we thought they probably needed it more than we did, and we can easily get another one.  

We had a flat sea all the way and the oil pressure seemed to settle on the red. We think that when it had it’s spasm it shook it lower down the scale. When the engine is off the needle is as far down as it can go, instead of the usual position of ‘0’.

We arrived at Cala Iris, a fairly new fishing port, which is about 3 miles East of where the Pilot Book says  it is. A friendly policeman came on board as soon as we arrived with the usual detailed questioning, including how many children we had! He told us they only get about one boat a month coming here, mostly from Spain. This is probably because the Pilot Book is rather vague about facilities for yachts.

Cala Iris makes El-Jebha look like a Metropolis! There are Port Authority and Police buildings, the Co-operative Fishery, fishermen’s cottages and a few basic eating houses.

We went to the beach which was quite busy with Moroccans, but once again not many women. In the evening we went to one of the eating houses and had grilled sardines and chips which cost £5 for two, including drinks.

Barbara and Tudor leaving El-Jebha

El-Jebha, Morroco

El -Jebha

Susannah and Yooannmee moored together

Susannah and Yooannmee rafted at El-Jebha
Originally uploaded by Yacht Susannah

SATURDAY 21 JUNE 2008

Roger and Tudor played with their SSB radios trying to get weather information from the Monaco station. Our SSB radio is not picking up the broadcasts so Roger fitted an earth to it. He also changed the oil and oil filter (in his best fawn coloured shorts) to see if it made any difference to the oil pressure gauge (it didn’t). Barbara and I went to walk around the town which was surprisingly busy with small cafes (always filled by men, not women), small shops selling a variety of goods and stalls on the road selling jeans, figs and plums. We bought some of the lovely Moroccan bread and fruit. All the people seem really friendly and are happy showing you the way without expecting money.

It was very hot, so Barbara and I packed a picnic and Roger helped Barbara blow up the canoe. The friendly young harbour master came to chat to us and told us he had worked as a Fisherman for ten years, working for a few years on an Irish boat where he had learned English. He is hoping the area can be developed a little to encourage more visitors, particularly when they have such a beautiful spot with the Rif mountains overlooking the Mediterranean. He comes from Rabat, where his wife is living, and he goes back for a weekend once a month. The Fisheries boat had gone out into the bay with a Professor on board looking at the viability of starting a Fish Farm as fish stocks are dwindling in the area.

Barbara and I canoed about a mile across the bay to the beach and went for a swim. A group of very pretty little girls came and sat nearby. They seemed shy but wanted to talk to us and asked what we were called. Eventually they plucked up courage to ask if we had got a pen! I had brought two with me and gave them one and they seemed very happy. It seems the boys want sweets, whisky and cigarettes and the girls want pens! It’s nearly always boys who are out playing, and not long after a group of boys came and the girls went away. The children seem intrigued to see foreigners. Barbara lent one of them her snorkel and mask, but soon after the boys were chased away by a man who told them not to bother us.

Barbara and I canoed back to the boat and the boys jumping from the harbour entrance came over and wanted us to tow them. When there were about four on the canoe I couldn’t maneuver it but they let go when asked. We let them jump into the canoe when we got it back to the boat. The canoe is extremely stable as there were about six boys climbing in and out of it and it still did not capsize.

In our absence Roger had taken a walk into the town, hoping to get rid of the rubbish. A small boy followed him at 25 paces all the way into the town and back to the port!

For an out-of-the-way place, surprisingly El-Jebha has a few internet cafes. We took our own computers along as it is very difficult typing on the Arabic keyboards as a lot of the letters are in different places. My computer wouldn’t connect so I used their computer, but it was very, very slow.

There are small eating houses in El-Jebha but they all seemed to be full of men watching football. We eventually found a larger one with a terrace and had an excellent meal for the four of us for less than £20. We had coffee on Susannah and the Harbour Master came over to say goodbye. Barbara and Tudor have decided to cross to Malaga tomorrow as they are meeting up with friends who live in the Mar Menor.

Smir to El-Jebha, Morroco - 47 Miles

Roger's best catch ever!

FRIDAY 20 JUNE 2008

We left Smir about 8.30 with Tudor and Barbara after checking out with immigration. We motor-sailed and started the water maker. It didn’t work at first and Roger had to blow water through the outlet, as there was a blockage because it hasn’t been used since last September. It had been a cloudy start to the day but soon the sun came out and it was lovely and warm. We were able to sail from about 12 p.m. in a flat sea, but had to put the engine on to tack away from the land. The wind died so we motor-sailed the rest of the way. Roger fished again and had his best catch ever – a 20 inch bonito, large enough to feed 4! He gutted it and I marinated it ready for tonight. A pod of dolphins came to play with us for about half an hour, we saw a sun fish and a very large turtle. All this against the magnificent backdrop of the Rif Mountains.

It can’t all be plain sailing, and we had a couple of technical problems apart from the water maker. The oil pressure gauge starting vibrating back and forth very quickly and eventually vibrated near the low mark, although there was plenty of oil in the engine. Roger was worried it could be a blocked filter so we kept monitoring it. The autohelm started freezing every time we opened the water tap! We had to turn the autohelm off and back on to get it to work. The C-Map on our chart plotter was about ¾ mile out as we neared El-Jebha and showed us on land!

We moored in the small fishing harbour against the Fisheries boat. Two Immigration Officers came on board and took ages to complete the paperwork and wanted to know very detailed information, even what make our VHF was! I asked if we could take our boat round to the next bay for the day to swim, and back to El-Jebha for the evening. I was told this was not permitted. We could anchor in the bay but would not be able to come back. The area is very tightly controlled because of drugs and illegal immigrants. There are even manned sentry boxes on the hill looking out to sea. Kif is one of the main crops cultivated in this area.

Tudor and Barbara arrived about 7.30 p.m. and had had the same problem with their oil gauge! Very weird – it reminded us of the film Wolfcreek.

The four of us had an excellent meal on Susannah and all agreed the marinated tuna was the best we have ever tasted. The village boys kept asking for Bon bons and when we said we hadn’t got any, they asked for whisky and cigarettes!

El-Jebha Port Fees: Free, no facilities

Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen with the Rif Mountains in the background

CHEFCHAOUEN

THURSDAY 19 JUNE 2008

We used the same taxi driver as yesterday and went to Chefchaouen, a Berber village in the Rif Mountains about 80 kilometers away, with Barbara and Tudor.  The taxi driver had to go to the police as he was going outside the 50 kilometer limit. The drive was spectacular with fantastic views of the mountains and isolated villages. We passed the end of a sheep market which had started at 6 a.m. and saw loaded mules and Berber men and women cutting wheat by hand. We also saw black kites and an owl sitting on a telegraph pole. We stopped at a road side stall and bought some fresh figs where the people, as we have found everywhere in Morocco, were very friendly.

Until the 1920s, only four Europeans had ever visited Chefchaouen. The buildings in the Medina are painted a lovely white and pale blue. We had a look at the small shops and met a shopkeeper from the village who is called Bruce and I told him I was called Sheila. His wife is Scottish. Barbara tried to reduce the price of a poof by suggesting the mark on it was because he had had a little accident! Luckily he saw the funny side. We had a very cheap lunch in a local café – less than £10 for the four of us, and then visited the large Berber market as it is market day on Thursdays. The market is very colourful with the Berbers dressed in their different costumes according to their different tribes.

Tetouan

Roger and I with our guide

WEDNESDAY 18 JUNE 2008

We organized a taxi at the Marina for 300 Dirhams (about £20) to take us to Tetouan for the day  with Barbara and Tudor. The route to Tetouan took us quite a way along the coast where the new apartments and hotels are being built. There is also a large water park near Smir.

A guide met us there and took us around the Medina where we were taken to the inevitable carpet shop and Barbara and Tudor bought 3 items! We also persuaded Tudor that he needed a Jellaba. The Tannery is much smaller in Tetouan than the one in Fes, but just as smelly, and we were able to walk around it.

The Moroccans certainly seem to work fast. Men had been digging holes for palm trees near Smir along the new dual carriageway and by the time we came back they were all planted. There is a lot of activity at the moment, partly because the King is coming to stay in his palace here in July.

Ceuta to Smir, Morocco - 13 Miles

'Lively Lady' leaving Ceuta

TUESDAY 17 JUNE 2008

I was woken to the cries of ‘Oh no!’ from the crew of Lively Lady who had got the lazy line wrapped around their prop as they tried to leave and the skipper had to go into the water to release it.

Barbara and Tudor are joining us on their boat Yooannmee for our trip along the Moroccan coast, but we left earlier at about 11.30 a.m. after filling with cheap (relatively) diesel at 95 cents a litre. There was a strong wind as we left Ceuta and a forecast of 5 – 7 in the Straits of Gibraltar, but Roger didn’t tell me that until we’d already left the harbour! However, with one reef in the main and a partially rolled up genoa we were comfortable enough, making about 8 knots over the ground with both tide and current in our favour. Gibraltar looked majestic against the blue sky. Once we rounded the headland of Ceuta, one of the Pillars of Hercules, the sea was flat and the wind dropped to a gentle 2 – 3 breeze on the beam in warm sunshine. This is our first sail in Susannah in the Med and if it stays like this it will be wonderful! Roger tried fishing by trailing a paravane, but despite a couple of false alarms, caught nothing.

When we took the taxi from Ceuta to Tetuan we had noticed that there is an immense construction project going on with new apartments and hotels being built all along the coast, which we could now see from the sea. The worry is that they may turn Morocco into the next Costa del Sol.

Nearing Smir we took down our Spanish courtesy flag and hoisted the “Q” flag (which means “my vessel is healthy and I request clearance”). I have always had some doubts about the correct “Q” flag procedure, but having looked it up it seems to be that it should be flown from the starboard spreader without flying any courtesy flag. Once clearance is completed the “Q” flag comes down and the courtesy flag goes up.

We sailed the whole way; only turning on the engine in the harbour entrance. Once we had checked in with the marina staff we were allocated a berth (a Mediterranean mooring) and given to understand that we should proceed to it. No sooner than we had tied up – not easy with Sheila having to lasso the mooring bollard – a policeman arrived and ordered us to return to the welcome pontoon to complete clearance procedures. Having some doubts about Sheila’s ability to repeat the lassoing trick we successfully persuaded him to let us leave the boat in the berth and walked back to his office to complete the formalities.

We realized we are definitely in Africa because as we approached Marina Smir we saw camels on the beach. Indeed, once berthed, camels were often led along the harbour walls inside the marina. Barbara and Tudor arrived about 5 p.m. and after a drink we went for a walk and a paddle along the beautiful beach next to the marina, and back for a BBQ on Susannah.

Marina Smir is a large attractive Marina with restaurants and cafes, but nearly empty at only about 10% capacity. A lot of people are put off visiting Morocco itself by boat because of the stories about having to bribe officials and hassle from the locals. This is a shame as we have loved our visits to Tangier and inland and they have made us want to see more of the country. So far we have not had to bribe or pay baksheesh and have hardly had any hassle at all; most Moroccans proving to be charming, friendly and extremely helpful. Barbara has got some cigarettes in case we need to bribe anyone further along the coast, as a precaution. After Roger’s 3 week upset tummy we’ve got an excess of Imodium which we’re going to swap for some of her cigarettes!

MARINA: £50 for 3 nights, electricity, water, good showers – no internet.

Portofina, Italian Riviera

View from Castello Brown

THURSDAY 12 JUNE 2008

The town was buzzing because Wayne Roony was getting married in Portofino, and the rumour is the wedding is today. We had already decided to go to Portofino anyway and caught the ferry there. It is full of restaurants and extremely expensive designer shops. We saw a few paparazzi, but nothing else to show there was the ‘wedding of the year’ taking place.

We visited Castello Brown, where there was a photo exhibition of all the rich and famous who have come to Portofino – Onassis, Churchill, many film stars including Liz Taylor, Walt Disney etc.

We had a farewell lunch with Cecily and Geoff and caught the ferry back to Santa Margherita and then the train to Milan. We stayed in a motel near the airport and had to check in at 5.30 a.m., but the woman who drove us took us to Terminal 1 instead of 2, so it took us twenty minutes to get to Terminal 2! We were then serenaded by an Italian Male Voice Choir on the plane. Roger and I enjoyed it, but the man next to us obviously didn’t as he was trying to sleep and kept putting his fingers in his ears and groaning!

We caught the bus from Malaga to Algeciras and the ferry to Ceuta, arriving back at the boat about 4 p.m. We were delighted to see our friends from Swansea Yacht Club, Barbara and Tudor, had arrived in their boat Yooannmee. We had a meal with them and later adjourned to the Ceuta Yacht Club.

Lively Lady, Sir Alec Rose’s boat, was moored one boat down from us and is heading back to the UK after a circumnavigation with disadvantaged people joining the boat for parts of the journey.

San Fruttuoso Bay, Italian Riviera

San Fruttuoso from the ferry

WEDNESDAY 21 JUNE 2008

The Patterson guided walk was a little more strenuous today. We had a very steep climb through the woods over Mount Portofino, which thankfully was in the shade. There was then a steep descent down to the beautiful bay of San Fruttuoso. 

The bay can only be reached by foot or boat and there is an Abbey and the Andrea Doria Tower there. We had lunch overlooking the bay and went swimming in the lovely clear water. We caught the ferry to Camogli, where we ate very rich ice creams, and later caught the bus back to Santa Margherita. There were superb views from the bus as it wound it’s way over Mount Portofino. After a bottle of wine at the hotel, we went out for another excellent meal.

Cinque Terre, Italian Riviera

Looking down on Vernazza

TUESDAY 10 JUNE 2008

We caught the train to Riomaggiore, in the National Park of the Cinque Terre and walked the 9 kilometers cliff walk to Monterosso al Mare, stopping to have lunch at Corniglia. The views of the cliffs and the Mediterranean were breathtaking. The flowers were beautiful and the broom had a wonderful scent. 

We had a well earned ice cream (beer for Geoff) and swim in the wonderful clear waters when we reached Vernazza, and another swim when we reached the end at Monterosso al Mare. We caught the train and arrived back in Santa Margherita about 8 p.m.

Ceuta, Morroco to Santa Margherita, Liguria, Italian Riviera by ferry, train and plane

The four in-laws

SATURDAY 7 - MONDAY 9 JUNE 2008

Our son's Australian parents-in-law are on a walking holiday in Italy and we are joining them for a few days.

We caught the ferry from Ceuta to Algeciras and train to Malaga where we stayed in an excellent hotel right on the beach. The weather was fantastic and I had my first swim in the Mediterranean Sea.

The next day we flew to Milan, where it was pouring with rain, and then caught the train right to Santa Margherita. The taxi ride to the hotel was 15 euros but we could have walked it in 15 minutes. Lesson number one in Italy – always ask the taxi price before getting in!

Santa Margherita is a lovely Riviera town with elegant shops. We wandered along the streets to the port, and looked at some of the expensive boats in the marina.

On Monday, we met up with Geoff and Cecily, Lisa’s parents. We had a wonderful lunch together and caught up on news of our son. We walked to the next village of Rapallo. We had an excellent meal in the evening at Antonios near the hotel.

Casablanca

Main Hall of Mosque Hassan II

WEDNESDAY 4 JUNE 2008

We visited the Mosque of Hassan II which has to count as one of the most fantastic buildings I have ever seen. Everything is on an enormous scale. The Mosque covers 968,774 sq. ft., two thirds of which is built over the sea. 

The beautifully decorated Minaret is 656 ft. high. The prayer hall can accommodate 25,000 people and there is space for another 80,000 outside. The Mosque only took 6 years to complete with 35,000 craftsmen working on it 24 hours a day seven days a week in shifts. Everything is of the highest standard with carved stucco, tiles, painted cedar ceilings and marble floors. The two ablusion rooms are fantastic with several fountains, and there is a beautiful spa pool which will eventually be open to the public to use.

We had a cocktail and lunch in Rick’s bar which is a restaurant on 3 floors in the style of Rick’s bar in Casablanca and the film plays non stop in one of the rooms. We had a meal in the evening where the music ranged from Moroccan, jazz, rock and roll, pop and rap and there were people smoking a hookah on the next table.

We caught the train back to Ceuta the next day and have now covered most of the rail network in Morocco!

Marrakech to Casablanca by train

Palais de Justice, Casablanca

TUESDAY 3 JUNE 2008

The 4 hour train journey from Marrakesh to Casablanca was very interesting. There were rural villages with people using the wells, mules, shepherds with their sheep and a couple of camels. No matter how poor the houses or shacks looked, with rocks holding down the corrugated roofs, they all seemed to have satellite dishes.

In Casablanca we visited the luxurious Palais de Justice where my grandmother’s sister, Diana, was divorced in 1943 as she lived in Casablanca during the war.

Marrakech

Koukabia Mosque, originally built 1147

MONDAY 2 JUNE 2008

We visited the Dar Si Said Museum which is set in a 19th century palace with beautiful gardens. Some of the rooms have superb carved cedar domed ceilings. 

We then went to the highly decorated Saadian Tombs which date from about 16th century. The central room has a carved cedar dome with gold-leaf decoration supported by 12 marble columns. 

The next palace we visited was the very large Palais Bahia which has beautiful cedar ceilings and is decorated with tiles, marble and a arabesque. Non muslims are not allowed in the Koutoubia Mosque but it is possible to walk around the outside. The original mosque was replaced because the qibla did not point directly to Mecca. The mosque was built about 1147 and its minaret, which is 230 feet tall, was used as a model for the Giralda in Seville.

Marrakech, Morocco

Some may say it's an improvement!

SUNDAY 1 JUNE 2008

Yesterday, we had a 7 hour train journey to Marrakech. Traveling First Class in Morocco is quite cheap but very comfortable. We arrived at our hotel, the Rhiad Catalina, which is a beautiful restored 19th century palace.

Today we wandered around the Medina on our own and saw the dyeing souk where wool is dyed using natural products such as saffron, poppy, coal etc. Roger had raiki performed on him and bought lotions for his feet. There were many workshops making shoes, metal workshops making lanterns, carpenters making tables, individuals spinning wool and weaving blankets from sheep and camel hair.

We had lunch in the Place Jemaa el-Fna where there were acrobats, snake charmers, fortune tellers and stalls selling figs and fresh orange juice. In the afternoon we went to the Ben Youssef Medersa, one of the largest in the Maghreb with space for 900 students, the Koubba Ba’Adiyn, and the Musee de Marrakech which is set in the 19th century palace of Dar Menebhi. The architecture just seems to get better and better.

We went back to the hotel and relaxed by the pool before going out in the evening to the main square Place Jemaa el-Fna. Once again, it was alive with henna stalls, snake charmers, dancers, musicians and lots of food stalls, each one touting for business. One young boy said he thought we came from Wales and started speaking excellent Welsh to us!

Fes, Morocco

A Mule Jam!

FRIDAY 30 MAY 2008

We wandered around the Medini on our own and came across the Riyad Moqri Palace, which is a lovely restored 19th century palace and gardens and is now an institute for teaching traditional crafts and architecture. We were invited to look around, for the usual tip of course. 

We also found the Palace Minebhi which has superb views over Fes, and the 14th century Palais des Merinioles, both of which are now restaurants that have architecture that compares with the Alcazar in Seville.

Fes, Morocco

Tannery in Fes

THURSDAY 29 MAY 2008

What a fantastic day! It started with a wonderful breakfast of various styles of pancakes, hard boiled eggs, fresh bread, croissants, orange juice and coffee. We hired an excellent guide, Youbi Houssine, to show us around the medina, which is the largest in Morocco and is celebrating it 12th century this year.

The narrow streets sold an amazing variety of goods. Chickens are kept live in the chicken stalls so they can be freshly killed to ensure fresh meat. We passed a house where there is a 14th century water clock.

There are several Fondouks in Fes, which used to provide food and shelter to traders. In most of them now the upstairs rooms are used for craftsmen and workshops, and stalls are set up on the ground floor to sell goods. Some of them were like being back in the medieval ages. Fondouk-el-Najjarine has been completely restored and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

There are mosques on nearly every street, but the Karaouiyine Mosque, established in 859, is one of the oldest in the western Muslim world and is the site of the first University in Morocco. The Mosques are not open to non Muslims, but it was possible to look through the doors and even take pictures of the fabulous architecture. Medersas were used to house University students and we visited the 14th century Bou Inania Medersa, which has been renovated. There is a very large renovation and restoration project going on in Fes since it was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO.

We passed several primary schools (state funded) and one pre-primary school (privately funded) where we saw children learning to count in French. We also saw several bakeries. People make their bread at home and bring them to the community bakehouse to be cooked. The hammams (public bath houses) are heated by burning wood chippings from the carpenters.

The tanneries were like something from the middle ages, where the skins are soaked and rinsed to get rid of any blood and left over fur. We were given mint to hold under our noses because of the smell. The skins are then died before being made into belts, handbags etc. We also visited a carpet shop and although we told the shopkeeper we had no intention of buying any carpets as we lived on a boat, they were so beautiful and he was so persuasive we bought two! We visited a workshop where cloth is made for clothes, scarves and bed coverings and another workshop of brass workers and copper smiths. It was very interesting to see objects being made from the raw material.

We had an excellent lunch in an old palace and then went outside the city walls to the pottery and mosaic workshop where we could see men throwing pots and painting tajines.

We went back to the Rhiad and had another excellent meal on the patio.

Ceuta to Fes by Bus

Village on the way to Fes

WEDNESDAY 28 MAY 2008

We had sailed from Tangier to Ceuta, which is a Spanish enclave. and feels very much like Spain.

It was drizzling when we caught the bus from Ceuta to the Moroccan border. We walked across the border to Morocco and went through immigration, with the aid of a helpful man who directed us and then wanted some dirhams. 

We took a taxi to Tetuan, following a coastal route to start with where there is a lot of construction work for new apartments and hotels. When we arrived at Tetuan we were led on to a coach before we got into the bus station. Although the coach was definitely passed its sell by date, it was cheap – about £4 for the two of us for a 200 mile journey. There were several road blocks by customs officials, presumably looking for drugs. The coach went through the Rif Mountains and we passed Berber men and woman in straw hats and shawls working in the fields. Mules and donkeys are used for transporting people and goods but we only saw a couple of camels. There were Oleander bushes in full flower and large bushes of red geraniums growing wild along the roadside.

The view changed from lush mountains to dry, sandy coloured land and huts. It had become quite cool in the mountains but gradually became warmer as we headed south.

The journey took about 6 hours and we went straight to our hotel, Rhiad Sheherazade, which is a restored 19th century palace with a beautiful patio with a pool. We were given mint tea and buscuits while we completed the paperwork and were then shown to our room. It was decorated in Moroccan style with a sofa and television on a mezzanine floor, and a view of the patio and pool from the balcony. We had dinner on the patio and the staff were exceptionally friendly and attentive.

Barbate to Tangiers - 25 Miles

24 - 25 MAY 2008

A warm welcome from the Tangier fishing fleet

We had been concerned about getting upset stomachs in Morocco but Roger seemed to have got one in Spain, which he was taking to Morocco with him.

We left about 10.00, passing close to the Tuna net and fishing boats just outside the entrance to Barbati. We had an excellent sail to Tangier, arriving about 3 p.m. Spanish time or 1 p.m. Moroccon time. We seemed to have timed our arrival for the exit on the whole of the Tangier fishing fleet, who seemed very friendly and waved and shouted at us, calling me 'guapa'!

The Immigration Officer came on board immediately and was extremely friendly and even told the Customs Officer that we had nothing to declare and he didn’t need to come on board.

After lunch, we wandered around the medina, which was extremely atmospheric. Some of the alley ways were obviously only made for thin people! The souk sold all kinds of vegetables, fruit and spices. Baskets, leather, copperware, pottery, carpets, hookahs and musical instruments were also being sold in nearly every shop. Roger bargained for a Jellaba, like a Kaftan. The starting price was 250 Dirham, but he managed to get it for 100 Dh, which is about £6 and the seller became his friend for life.

We had heard conflicting comments about Tangiers, some of the negative ones being that it was dirty and the people would not leave you alone until you had hired a guide to take you around. We found them extremely helpful and friendly and no one pushed themselves on us.

We had a drink in the very smart Yacht Club by the port and stayed on the boat. We had just gone to bed about 10.00 Tunisian time, 12.00 Spanish, when the boat on the inside of us wanted to leave, so we had to get up and re-moor the boat.

Roger with his new best friend

Isla Culatra, Portugal - Mazagon, Spain - Rota - Barbate

Taio peacefully at anchor, Isla Culatra

TUESDAY 20 MAY 2008

ISLA CULATRA, PORTUGAL - MAZAGON, SPAIN

55 MILES

Isla Culatra is a stunning setting with beautiful soft sandy bays, but we decided not to wait any more for the ‘perfect’ beach day and set off under a grey sky to Mazagon. The weather is good for the next few days for going East and getting to Morocco. It can sometimes take a month before the winds are in the right direction and not too strong. We motor-sailed most of the way, with a couple of hours sailing.

Marina: 13.29 euros

WEDNESDAY 21 MAY 2008

MAZAGON - ROTA - 44 MILES


After breakfast in the café we left about 11.00 and sailed the whole way on a beam reach, making about 6 – 7 knots. We passed Chipiona and are now going further East than we have yet been.

Rota is a lovely town, and we had an excellent meal in a hotel.

Marina: 13.29 euros

THURSDAY 22 MAY 2008

ROTA - BARBATE- 44 MILES

The family from Wales on Cape, who we had met in the Guadiana, were in the Marina, so we went and had a chat with them before having breakfast in the town. Sarah and David are going in the same direction as us, but have got engine problems at the moment which should be fixed in a few days. When we went to pay the marina, they told us that Ayamonte Marina said we hadn’t paid for the two nights when we were there in April! Unfortunately, I had paid by cash and hadn’t kept the receipt. It seems their systems often make mistakes, but it is up to the customer to prove that they have paid!

We didn’t get away until about 11 a.m. again, but had an excellent sail the whole way. Roger managed to put the cruising shute up without the use of the usual expletives! We passed Trafalgar and had to make sure we avoided getting tangled up in the Tuna nets. There are a few of these as the Tuna have to pass through the narrow Straits to go from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean to spawn.

We arrived at Barbate about 7 p.m. They could only offer us a 16 metre berth which would cost about 20 euros. We were also told that normally electricity and water was extra, but in all the Junta marinas we have stayed so far, we have not been charged for water and electricity. In the end she said we could stay on the waiting pontoon for 15.12 euros

Marina: 15.12 euros, excellent showers, no internet

Isla Culatra, Portugal

Walk on Isla Culatra

MONDAY 19 MAY 2008

Although the mornings are calm early on, the wind soon pipes up and the forecast yesterday was for 5 – 6, so we stayed on the boat. Carol and John called by, and were going to come over for the afternoon but by then the wind was blowing a strong 6-7.


John and Carol were going to move their boat near Verna and Anna as it is a little more sheltered there, so we decided to do the same. After lunch, we went ashore with Carol and John to explore Isla Culatra, which is beautiful and unspoilt at the moment. However, some of the dunes are being dug to lay a water pipe and there are rumours of building a hotel there. 

We walked to the village where there are lovely little houses, a couple of shops, a school and a couple of bars. After a beer, we visited the bay where a lot of catamarans have run up on the beach and formed a permanent community which has been there since about the 1970s. It must be a hard life, as they have to carry everything over the sand, including water.


The wind was quite strong again and it was rather scary canoeing back. We stopped at Carol & John’s boat for a coffee and brandy and waited for the wind to die down in the evening before canoeing back to Susannah.

The permanent community of boats

Isla Culatra and Olhao, Near Faro, Portugal

Beautiful Jacaranda trees in Faro

THURSDAY 15 MAY 2008

It was a beautiful, peaceful morning apart from the fishing boats going past and the planes flying into Faro airport. We canoed to Olhao and saw fisherman standing in the lagoon fishing for cockles. As we pulled the dinghy ashore, Verna and Anna turned up in their dinghy. They are moored further away in another part of the lagoon. We had a coffee with them and then went to explore the town where there is an excellent fruit and veg market and a fish market in the mornings. 

We found the parish church, Nossa Senhora do Rosario, which apparently has a good view of the town, but it was locked up. We found the museum, and saw a man unlocking the door, but he told us it was closed for two weeks. The only thing left to do was to have a long lunch! The wind had got up in the afternoon so the journey back to the boat wasn’t quite so pleasant. Roger spent the rest of the afternoon making mosquito nets for the hatches. In the evening, Tom arrived on ‘First Lady’ and anchored near us.

SATURDAY 17 MAY 2008

It poured with rain nearly all day yesterday, so we stayed on the boat. Today was much better with blue skies and no wind, so we canoed to Isla Culatra to see if there was a ferry to Faro. Tom came ashore in his dinghy and said he and Rosa would give us a lift to Faro in ‘First Lady’. He wanted to use his bike, so Rosa stayed with us in Faro. We had a coffee and then found Igreja do Carmo, where there is the Capela dos Ossos which has walls lined with skulls and large bones taken from the friar’s cemetery. It was locked, and when we asked someone he said it had closed about 10 minutes before and didn’t think it would be open in the afternoon. 

There was a beautiful plaza surrounded by purple Jacaranda trees in flower. We had lunch and then wandered around the picturesque walled Vila Adentro. We sailed First Lady along the channel back to the anchorage. Carol and John on Taio had arrived and were anchored next to us. There was a strong cool wind and Roger had to row Tom’s dinghy ashore to collect our canoe and we then canoed back to our boat.

Isla Christina, Spain to Isla Culatra, Near Faro, Portugal

Faro

WEDNESDAY 7 - TUESDAY 13 MAY 2008

ISLA CHRISTINA, SPAIN

We spent the week in Isla Christina trying to sort out the water pump problems. We managed to buy a water pump from one of the chandlers which pressured up correctly, but each time one leak was found another would appear. Roger replaced some hose, connections and jubilee clips and decided that if any other small leaks appear we will have to live with them. It may be that there is a fault on the pressure release valve, which would involve a much larger and longer job. If this is the case, we will get this sorted next winter. The weather was not very good with some rain, thunder and lightning and strong winds.

Marina: 93.06 euros for 7 nights; no internet

WEDNESDAY 14 MAY 2008

ISLA CHRISTINA - ISLA CULATRA, NEAR FARO

The forecast was better for today, so we left about lunch time in order to leave Isla Christina at high tide and arrive at Isla Culatra at low tide. We had a good sail for most of the way, although as usual the wind was on the nose. We then had tide and wind against us and were only doing about 2.5 knots, so decided to motor-sail. We anchored in the lagoon behind Isla Culatra about 7.30 p.m. Portuguese time. Isla Culatra is an island forming part of the 37 mile Ria Formosa Nature Reserve and the lagoon is protected from the ocean by long sandy islets. The waters are rich in sea-life and the cockles, oysters and clams that are farmed here make up 80 per cent of Portugal’s mollusc export. The Island has a population of about 3000, mainly relying on fishing.