Pomarao , Rio Guadiana

Susannah in Pomarao

WEDNESDAY 30 APRIL 2008

Roger spent the morning trying to find leaks, and then the water pump stopped working altogether. We motored the two miles to Pomarao and tied up next to a boat on the pontoon. We met a Dutchman, Jap, whose sailing boat was also on the pontoon, but he lives in the village. He said he’d set off four years ago, but arrived here, fell in love with a woman and has never left.

Roger worked on the water pump most of the afternoon. He managed to get it working, but it still would not pressurize up properly when put in place. We’re going to buy a new water pump when we get to Isla Christina and see if that solves the problem. In the meantime, we have no pressurized water, only the hand pump.

We chatted to Manolo, who was fishing from Yap’s boat. He spoke very good English as he had lived in Holland for 30 years and worked as a translator. He told us a new bridge is being built which will link Pomarao with Spain. He said some in the village had been for it and some against – someone had even called in Greenpeace! It will mean the villagers can get better medical care in Spain, better provisions and cheaper petrol, but will mean more people passing through the village and may spoil the peace and quiet of the place. A hill overlooking the river is already being scared up to make the road. We went to the bar for a drink and chatted to the Dutch couple from the campervan and a Swedish couple who are anchored in the river.

We went back to the boat for a BBQ and chatted to an English couple, Dennis and Wendy, whose boat Dingaling is moored behind us. They live in Lagos and knew some of the people we had met there.

Facilities: Free pontoon; no water or electricity. Some houses have no running water so there is a public toilet and shower block which visitors can use for free.